cusco

I've made it! Machu Picchu has been on my bucket list for who knows how long and I'm finally here in Cusco, the city just south of it (but 1,000 ft higher in elevation). Not that I know any better but this city must be the quintessential Peruvian city. It is darling! It almost reminds me of Europe with its old buildings and stone roads. It's got the old world charm that I love with little old Peruvian ladies selling there fruits and vegetables at the local market in their authentic native apparel.

After a long day of travel and airplane food, that I do not eat, I was tired and famished! Upon my check in, I looked on travel advisor to see what the top restaurants were in Cusco. I wasn't feeling adventurous in trying new regional dishes just yet so I found myself at a little Italian place just outside the plaza del armas (the main square). Glass of wine and pasta? Couldn't be more up my alley.

The next day I wandered the central part of the city, taking photos of the Plaza de Armas and surrounding areas. I was amazed by what a difference in temperature the daylight could bring. A jacket was totally unnecessary. After being hassled one too many times by local men while people watching in the main square (one of the downfalls of being blonde in a dark haired society), I wandered over to the San Pedro market and purchased a few "souvenirs" indigenous to Peru. Textiles are one of the hugest exports of Peru. Peruvians are excellent weavers and have gorgeous assortments of brightly colored textiles and soft (and warm!) Alpaca scarves and blankets. In the market they also have fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as breads, meats, and other foods. You can get a three course meal there for under US$5. One of the popular dishes is alpaca (yes, same animal as the blankets and scarves) which tastes similar to lamb but more gamey. I didn't try the native cuy (or guinea pig) because it is served with the head, neck, and usually organs attached (however, some places will remove the organs with your request). Call me crazy but I prefer it when my food can't look at me while I'm eating it. I did hear that it's quite good but I just wasn't up for the challenge.

I was picked up for my "City Tour" around 1pm. While I certainly wasn't disappointed, the city tour is really not of the city of Cusco. First stop with my small group of 8 was a Spanish cathedral that was built on Inca ruins. For those of you who don't know, the Spanish conquistadors came in with great force and eventually destroyed the Incan Empire. In fact, archeologists didn't discover the Incan ruins in the cathedral until and earthquake destroyed the city in the 1950s. The cathedral was fascinating with both the Spanish and Incan history that make up Peruvian heritage. Most Peruvians are Catholic, although many pray to the Gods of nature during the week and then go to mass on Sunday. Many people in the surrounding hills of Cusco are of indigenous heritage and speak the native language, Quechua, as well as Spanish.

While Lima may be the actial capital of Peru, it is clear that Cusco is it's most important and valued city. Cusco is the old capital of the Incan Empire and is believed to be the navel of the earth. This is why all of these important ruins surround the city. Our next stop was Sacsayhuaman (think "sexy woman" when pronouncing). Sacsayhuaman was a fortress built overlooking the city of Cusco. The complex is as many other Inca constructions made of large polished dry stone walls, each boulder carefully cut to fit together tightly without mortar. There are zig zag walls that surround the area that represent the mouth of the Condor, an important symbol of Peru, said to protect the city of Cusco.

From there, we headed to Tampu Machay, the bath of the Incas, where you could see their extremely well made aqueducts that still to this day have running fountains. One has to keep in mind that water meant power because without it, life cannot sustain. Right next to Tampay Machay is Puca Pucara, another fortress said to be a stopping point for Incan's traveling elsewhere. Our last stop was at Kenko, another Incan ruin (what do you know) with carefully constructed architecture. It is said on the 24 of June, when the sun is just right, the big stone casts a big shadow of a sitting Puma on the floor beneath it. The Puma and Condor are both of high importance to Quechua and Peruvian culture. You can see representations of them all over the nation.

Once the sun goes down, it gets quite chilly in Cusco. After the tour I got a sandwich at a cafe down the street from my hotel and retired early for the night. Early to bed and early to rise, for the next day is the one I have most looked forward to of my entire trip... Machu Picchu!